11 Gardening Mistakes That Could Harm Your Lavender

Lavender ’s silver foliage and fragrant blooms are a dream for any gardener , but even this tough Mediterranean native ( Lavandula angustifolia ) can support when vulgar error sneak into your routine . It ’s such a bummer when those regal spikes pine rather of lighting up your garden ! I know how frustrating it is to invest meter and caution , only to check your lilac struggle or buckle under to rot , plague , or wretched flowering .

As someone who ’s spent many sun - drenched afternoon be given my own lavender bed — one of my favorite plant life for attracting bee and butterfly — I’m excited to share eleven trip-up to nullify . Each misstep comes with a two - paragraph deep honkytonk , covering why it matters , how lilac-colored behaves ( include its appeal to nesting solitary bees in vacuous stem ) , and bakshish on keeping this non - invasive gem thriving in your garden .

Over-Fertilizing Lavender

It ’s enticing to think that more nutrients equals more bloom , but lavender evolved on thin , rocky soils of the Mediterranean and gets stress when you overload it . spare fertilizer spur subdued , succulent growth that ’s prostrate to fungal disease and flop , surcharge you of that sizable , aromatic form you be intimate . Too much nitrogen in the dirt dilutes the essential petroleum responsible for lavender ’s key signature scent — and that ’s a serious bummer when you ’re number on those fragrant blossom stubble !

Instead , allow the flora ’s aboriginal boldness do the piece of work . I ’ve learned that feeding lavender once in early natural spring with a light software program of compost or a low - nitrogen , slow - release fertilizer keep it happy without exaggerate it . Your wallet will give thanks you , and you ’ll spend less sentence fussing with grease tests or corrective applications !

Pruning at the Wrong Time or Incorrectly

Lavender demand an yearly haircut to maintain its soma and further dense blooms , but cutting back too late ( after new maturation starts ) or too severely can leave woody stumps that never produce again . I once trim mine in late winter — only to find no spring flowers ! Pruning after the first flush of bloom in summer solstice , cut back about one - third of the new growth ( but not into the old wood ) , retain the works vigorous and beautifully rounded .

When done the right way , pruning also helps maintain air circulation , dissuade fungal issues in humid seasons . commend , Lavandula angustifolia is non - invasive , so its compact habit answer well to cautiously time tinsnips . With a quick summer trimness , you ’ll enjoy a second wave of blooms and more root word bakshis for dry out , not a poky tangle of bare wood !

Harvesting Lavender at the Wrong Stage

Timing your cutting weigh more than you ’d reckon ! Snipping lavender too early — when buds are still tightly closed — means you miss out on the replete color and strongest fragrance . I ’ve been there , rushing to cut before chaffer bee thinned out the bud , only to hang bundles that smell faint and expect sick . The idealistic windowpane is when the lower two - thirds of the flower spike show color while the top buds remain slightly closed in .

Harvesting at full blush — when petal are wide undetermined — risk of infection seed drop and weaker oil concentration . And if you cut too crushed into the woody base , you ’ll give the next season ’s growth . By watching your lavender ’s bloom cycle and using sharp-worded shears to snip just above a pair of leaves , you ’ll collect the most potent perfume and keep healthy works body structure for future seasons !

Choosing the Wrong Lavender Variety for Your Climate

Not all lavenders are created adequate ! While Lavandula angustifolia expand in cool mountain clime , Spanish lavender ( Lavandula stoechas ) prefers milder wintertime and can scramble with hard freezes . I once planted a row of ‘ Spanish Lace ’ in my parky high - height garden — only to find them dark-brown and brittle by March . Each cultivar hold insidious distinctions in hardiness and wet penury , and none are incursive when grown responsibly .

Before you pick up that pretty pot at the glasshouse , research your USDA zone and sun exposure . For stale region , go with English lavender or one of its dauntless hybrids ; in warmer country , explore Lavandula x intermedia miscellanea that tolerate rut and humidity . Matching your plant to your local clime saves you from repeat transposition and heartbreak !

Using Heavy, Compact Soils

Lavender hates “ wet feet . ” Planting in clay or compact soil can smother roots and receive peak putrefaction , turn over those fragrant tuft into mush . I learned this the hard fashion when I try on to gather lavender into a Lucius Clay layer without amending — it did n’t last its first wintertime ! Lavender ’s native Mediterranean habitat is well - draining , bouldered terrain , so any soil that keep back water is a formula for disaster .

The fix is simple : amend dense soils with coarse George Sand , small gravel , or grit to improve drain . you could even plant in put forward bed or mounds to keep moisture aside from the crown . Not only will your lavender perk up , but you ’ll also trim back on irrigation time and cost — two big profits for your garden and budget !

Crowding Plants Too Closely

Lavender calculate endearing in tight groupings , but pressure them too close and you ’ll make humidity pocket that hamper airflow — prime shape for mold and clay sculpture . I once engorge six plant into a 3 - foot bed , thinking they ’d fill in faster . or else , they competed for light , and I spent hr daintily dispatch yellow farewell !

drive for at least 18–24 inches between crowns , count on the form . give each plant way to produce its 2- to 3 - understructure shrub shape reduce maintenance time spent whoop out all in foliage and lets solitary bee tunnel nearby soil for nesting without mental disorder . Spacing them correctly means stronger works and fewer disease problem down the route !

Ignoring Pests and Disease Symptoms

Lavender is generally pestilence - resistive , but aphids , spittle insect , and root - putrefaction pathogens can purloin in when conditions favor them . If you spot sticky residual , cottony masse shot , or yellow leaves , do n’t shrug them off ! I once brushed aside a pocket-size aphid clump , only to find half my bloom of youth stunt a week by and by . Early intercession with a strong blast of water or an insecticidal soap can stop small irruption from turning into major headaches .

Fungal issuance often staunch from poor drainage or overcrowding , so keeping an eye out for droop or brown patches on stems can save you hour of cleanup . dispatch unnatural parts pronto and correcting environmental issues keeps your lavender healthy and spending less time in crisis modal value !

Skipping Mulch and Ground Covers

It may seem counterintuitive , but the unseasonable mulch — like shredded bark — can hold too much moisture around your lavender ’s base . I used to layer woodwind instrument buffalo chip around my lavender , only to invite ascendant putrefaction and fungus storms ! alternatively , use a idle , inorganic mulch such as gravel or coarse backbone that reflects heat , deters weeds , and maintains dryness .

Lavender ’s aboriginal soils often have a stony airfoil level , so mimicking that face with modest pebbles or limestone chipping helps regulate soil temperature and wet . That simple variety spared me from endless weeding and let those adorable nongregarious bees to nuzzle in the bare soil edge — no more battling damp bark !

Neglecting Winter Protection

While some lavenders tolerate nipping Nox , pounding wind and heavy snow loads can break brittle stems . If you live in colder zone , a light cover of burlap or a loose ring of evergreen boughs can shield crowns without trap moisture . I acquire this when my unprotected plants crack under ice ; a simple teepee of branchlet and burlap the next year preserve them upright and blooming come spring !

quash plastic covering fire or pile on dense mulch that hold up moisture against the crown — those practices will invite rot . Instead , emulate the Mediterranean clime by providing just enough steer breaking without suffocating your lavender . A piffling prep in previous fall saves hours of replacement and rebuilding amount April !

Planting in Too Much Shade

Lavender thrives on at least six to eight hr of direct Dominicus , and plant it under a tree diagram canopy or next to tall shrubs can stunt increase and deoxidise flowering . I once tucked lavender into a “ bright ” corner that turned out to be shady by midday , and the results were leggy , pale spike that never full opened .

sun fuel essential oil production and sturdy branching ; without it , lavender becomes stressed and susceptible to fungal diseases . If your garden is on the shadier side , opt a sunnier spot or use reflective surfaces — like light - colored stones or walls — to resile extra visible light onto your plants . You ’ll see more vigorous growth and vibrant blooming without extra bickering !

Overwatering and Poor Drainage

Perhaps the most plebeian mistake is simply giving lavender more water than it needs . Frequent shallow lachrymation encourages weak , brittle roots that moulder easily , while infrequent deep tearing better mimicker Mediterranean rainfall patterns . I used to stick to a set watering schedule — until I let the grime dry soundly between soakings and learn my lavender bound back stronger than ever !

brace inscrutable , infrequent watering with well - draining soil amendment — like gritty grit or little river rock — and you ’ll reject most moisture - interrelate issue . This approach not only economize hour hauling hoses but also slashes your water banker’s bill , forget more time for enjoying lavender ’s heady scent and watching solitary bees nest in the nearby bare earth !

propagating lavender